"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
08/28/2018 at 21:22 • Filed to: None
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11|
"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
08/28/2018 at 21:22 • Filed to: None | 0
| 11 |
I’m trying to help my brother-in-law get his car back together. We need help
Car: 2003 Camry
Issue: everything rear passenger wheel bearing (#2). it’s stuck in part #5. Its a bit rusty having spent the last 15 years covered in New England salt.
We took the whole brake assembly apart and took it off the car so all that remains is parts 2 & 5. They will not separate and we have a small concern that part #5 may have bent during the beating of #2.
we have part #2 but not part #5. ( we also need part #8 which we can;t find either) 8 has been located.
Should we continue on and just have a machine shop press the two apart?
where else could we find the part. (zip code 02339)
sony1492
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/28/2018 at 21:54 |
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I would get a chisel at the end of 2 opposing corners for the bearing housing because if its what I think it is then the center lip of part 2 is rusted into 5 . Are you saying that you can’t find a new rear brake cylinder for a camry?(part 8) it should be available at any parts shop.
The Snowman
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/28/2018 at 21:57 |
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Dorman part#13867
5&8 come together.
RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/28/2018 at 22:00 |
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Why not try a local salvage yard? If it’s basically the rear casing of the drum brake stuck together with that other part, they aren’t really doing the job of stopping the car - that’s the shoes and cylinders and the like.
If it’s JUST those two casing-type pieces, why not just get a used one from a salvage or pick-and-pull yard? Or am I misinterpreting the pieces you need?
atfsgeoff
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/28/2018 at 22:13 |
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Proper application of percussive force is all that’s required. set two pieces of timber on the ground, spaced so that you can set the stuck assembly down onto it with the hub facing down, and the timbers touching just the backing plate and not the hub (which should be hanging freely without touching the ground either). then you can take a mini sledge to the middle of the hub assembly through the backing plate, concentrating all the percussive force down and centrally in the precise direction that you want the hub to move. The timbers will keep the backing plate supported while you do this.
Took about five good, hard whacks with a 3lb engineers hammer to break the rear hubs free from the backing plate on my gf’s mid-00s Subaru, with this exact procedure.
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
08/28/2018 at 22:14 |
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5 is the backing plate, which has all the mounting points for the brake parts. 8 is (or I think it is in that diagram anyway) one of the cylinders . being so close to the ground, we were thinking parts in the pick and pull won’t be in much better condition
gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/28/2018 at 22:14 |
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A soak the piss of out it with penetrating oil
B) slide hammer on the inside of the old bearing
C spray more oil and slide hammer.
D ) last case senario. Do the bolt to hold the bear just slide through part 5?
If there are no threads in part 5 , put the bolts on the back of the bearing, then loosed 1/2 a turn. Wail on them with a hammer , then loosen. Note this will fuck up the bolts, so you will need new ones.
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> sony1492
08/28/2018 at 22:15 |
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my brother-in-law is doing the part searching , He is saying 8 is out of stock at all the places he;s checked
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
08/28/2018 at 22:33 |
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‘A’ was step 1
‘B’ was attempted with a long bolt with washers & a nut on the back side of the hub. it belt the bolts before budging.
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OPPOsaurus WRX
> atfsgeoff
08/28/2018 at 22:35 |
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we did that but I think it was a 5 lb hammer.we are a little worried that it may have ended up bending the back plate a little.
ttyymmnn
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/28/2018 at 22:36 |
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I can’t help you with the car, but I do like that GIF. I can relate.
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gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> OPPOsaurus WRX
08/28/2018 at 22:48 |
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only benefit of a slide hammer is all the force is in one direction tension, so the force of your hammer blows can’t buckle or deflect sideways.
You may have to resort to my plan D. back out the bolts #3, and hammer to crack the rust.
THen there is plan E. Apply some heat to the bearing.